San Francisco, part I

This is my first article on San Francisco as I have done a few things there.  This was the last step of my short journey in America. Labelled as a liberal city compared to the rest of the country, I felt that I could some nice day there. In addition, it is in California and thus I could expect some sunshine. I was surprised by the wind force in the city even though it is not surprising at all given the nature of its location which is create wind streams. In addition, the temperature compared to Boston or New York was chilling especially at night. I was also surprised by the number of beggars that I came across right outside of the BART station (the metro there) on my first day; by the way, I found the commuting system quite neat. As a roommate at my hostel noticed, some of them are quite inventive; before reaching the airport I came across a group of them singing some gospel and it was not too bad. I wonder why they would stay in San Francisco and be freezing at night when they could try to reach a big city down in the south where weather would be more favourable to them.

San Francisco like any American cities that respect itself on the cultural scene boasts a Museum of Modern Arts. It managed to grow to its actual size thanks to the help of generous donations which expanded its post-war and contemporary arts collection with some works from Andy Warhol, Mark Rothko and other Robert Rauschenberg which thus increased its renown. This is nothing new in the growth of a museum though. It is nestled in a recent building which classically reflects its vocation of museum of modern arts. It also housed an exhibition about the evolution of California through pictures since the 19th century. Unfortunately, I ran out of time and could not see it, however I like the theme and I think that it is a refreshing theme to be explored as opposed to another exhibition about contemporary artists that people can barely get a grip on their works.

Being a liberal city means that San Francisco owns a certain cultural aura due to its ability to attract more people and let them do what they want. The number of art galleries that I came across was only to be match by New York. I also found that the city was much more Francophile than the others I visited, which was nice to me. The size of the city and the way museum were placed meant that a lot of walking had to be done. I could have taken the different bus lines that cover San Francisco but walking would also be a good occasion to see some different part of it. In addition with the beggars, I also noticed a lot of Asian people either living there or being tourists spending a week in the city, which is probably best explained with the “proximity” of Asia on the other side of the Pacific.

The location of San Francisco has been key in its history and development. Indeed, its port activities changed the face of its coast, at least in the city itself. Now that they are less used, they have been reconverted and constitute one of its charms. In fact, walking along its wharves and pier is probably one of the element I enjoyed the most there. Pier 39 is a good example of how it has changed and exploited. Even though, it is an expensive shopping mall for tourists, it somehow remains authentic thanks to its architecture. Amongst its shops, I stumbled on a nice photograhy shop which was quite inspiring when it comes to travel. Ghirardelli Square is another example of such a move: it was built next to the old chocolate factory of the locally famed brand and turned into a green space facing the Bay. Its topography is probably one of its most emblematic characteristic. If it can be tiring to walk to the top of the street, the view is very rewarding and allows access to such place such as Lombard Street and it turns and the Coit Tower  which let people admire a vista from San Francisco to the Golden Gate Bridge, another of its symbol.

Overall I found the city to be really enjoyable to live as far as I have been able to experience it. Walking around can be pretty tiresome especially with the hills around but the environment is well worth it. It is probably one of the most complete cities after New York in the USA as I do think that, from what I have heard, Los Angeles offers that kind of array of activities.

-C

Fresno: a sick city?

I thought about including my little adventures in central California and more precisely in Fresno in my article about San Francisco. However, I think that it deserves an article on its own.

Fresno is not a city easily reachable by public transport. It still benefit from six trains per day thanks to the San Joaquin Line of the AMTRAK. A bus line manned by Greyhound is also available. An airport is present in the city but I have not really checked for that opportunity.. I took the train and was a bit surprised by how slow it was going. Nevertheless, it was comfortable and I had a lot of space for my legs. It also gave me the opportunity to enjoy the rural landscape of California and to learn more about it. The countryside seems to be a really nice place often sunny, as it was this day, but I did not expect to see so many decrepit factories along the way. They reminded me of the 50’s-70’s. As expected, I saw a lot of orange trees field, vineyards and some beehives. Nevertheless, there is a difference between a city like San Francisco and this countryside which seems to be stuck some decades behind as the towns that the train serves have a kind of miserable feel about them that does not lent toward dynamism. Interestingly it reminds me that in America, cheap can sit with no shame next to poshness.  In addition of being the country of opportunity, the USA are perhaps also a country of great contrasts whether they be geographical or social. Overall, the car remains the best way to reach it and enjoy the city.

Indeed, the city’s structure reminded me a lot of Johannesburg in South Africa. Down-Town is kind of deserted and riddled by crime, as I was told. It was a sad thing for me to see as I hate a city with no real centre. Some buildings deserve more attention and the central streets could use more high-profile trade and shops rather than some cheap Hispanic shops. As a matter of fact, most of the big name will be found in malls scattered all over the city. And as the commuting is pretty much inexistent and that the city has expanded a lot, walking is not an effective way to reach a point, even for me! So the car remains the best way to travel around. It is obviously a vicious circle as nothing seems to be done to make people walk more. I am curious to know if the situation of Fresno, fifth biggest city in California with more than half a million inhabitants, is unique in America or if second rate cities across the country share the same flaw. Looking at the demographic statistics reveals that the city population boomed in the 90’s and that it probably suffered from a bad city development and now it would take a lot of effort to restrain the expansion of the city as no buildings exist in order to stall it. So the more the city grows, the more it expands and the more things get scattered.

Anyway, thanks to my designated driver, I could enjoy all the services that a city could offer. It is just that everything is scattered all over the place which might be a bit frustrating and I do not think that it is a positive motivational factor when the question of going out or doing some activities is raised. I have been able to enjoy a base-ball match where the local team, the Grizzlies, were trounced by the visitors. At first, this sport is to me as interesting as cricket as I do not fully grasp how it works. Yet, I am persuaded that if I had to live in the country, I could learn to appreciate it for its dynamic and relaxed ambiance and of course for its foot-long hotdog!

The proximity of a lot of natural parks should make of Fresno an ideal hub but it seems to be left unexploited and I am pretty sure that the fact that it is hard to be reach for tourists and backpackers does not help at all. In addition, the city is barely known abroad. I have a feeling that a lot of things could be done in this city but that people do not know how to deal with it because most of the competent persons leave the city and only the less motivated stay. Indeed, in the current state; why would they stay when they could go to bigger and more exciting cities? Interestingly, one of its sister’s cities is Verona in Italy: a city cradled in culture and history; it should be for Fresno a great way to improve its own status. Indeed, if the USA is not reputed for its fine culture and its long history, they are on the other hand a major actor on the outdoor’s activities scenes and Fresno happens to be close to a lot of them while being not so far from seaside and mountain activities. If the city is broke, why could not they use their potential outlaws, since crime is rife there, to help them develop the city instead of parking them into some overcrowded prisons? What’s going on there?

-C

Is the sun setting on California?

In order to get out of its nightmarish financial situation, the state of California has decided to vote two bills supposed to help solving this problem. Indeed, its penitentiary system is to be lightened and marijuana is to be legalised.

I can see the point of why it would be easier to save and gain money. I am also aware that the judiciary system in California is tough and thus it is one of the main causes in the overpopulation of its penitentiary facilities. 150,000 inmates are at the moment in the prisons and the bill aims to reduce this number by 55,000 over 3 years by shortening sentences, releasing people inculpated for minor sanctions and other mechanics. Prisons are often reaching the double of their designed capacities making the living conditions in them hard to manage; classrooms and gymnasiums had to be converted so that they could allow prisoners to sleep in. This reform would save from $803M to $906M per year and is endorsed by Governor Schwarzenegger. However, this problem does not only concern the state of California but the whole country, and as a matter of fact a lot of nations suffer from this problem. In 1972, there were 172,000 prisoners in the USA while now this number has skyrocketed to 1,403,091 people.

The bill on the legalisation of the marijuana would make of California the first state to legalize its use in the USA. A poll in April 2009 revealed that 56% of the Californians were favourable to it while in October 44% of the Americans would not mind this step. Proponents argue that it would diminish crime linked to the traffic as the ban has bolstered an aggressive underground economy while opponents argue that it would increase the problems linked to social behaviour notably on the road.

This bill, if passed, in conjunction with the prison bill would allow California to significantly reduce its prisons population and increase its finances thanks to a tax on the commercialisation of marijuana.

I am a bit dubitative at this double decision as I do not really know what would be the impact of such measure on the society. Does this mean that the cartels controlling drug traffic are going to be out of business without trying anything and thus crime will fall? Does this mean that people susceptible of a federal offense will take more liberties confident in the fact that minor crimes will be less punished? Will there be more troubles linked to the consumption of marijuana? Or are these more laxist measures supposed to perpetuate the ideal of happiness in the country blessed by God?

These events combined with the failure of the education in California do not announce a bright future to me. I do not really see how it would be beneficial for the society to profit from these bills. Is it a sign of the degeneration of the American society or of an evolution?

-C